Zdravo Trogir!

By: Marilyn King - [travel]
Freshness of a crystal transparent sea. Murmuring sounds of the sea in the morning. Shriek of a seagull. Twitter of a bird. Rooster telling you dawn has risen. Narrow lanes of Dalmatian towns. Unceasing rhythms of restless crickets in the pine woods.

Croatia, a homeland whose abundant beauty reflects the richness of tradition and culture.

We drive north along the coast from Makarska. A stop in Split, city of exceptional grace, culture and history. Early-evening arrival in Trogir - an island town, sometimes referred to as Venice in miniature.

Villa Jadran, by the sea, on the island of Ciovo - a 20-minute walk to the center of Trogir. Owner Milan Bilic makes you feel at home. Our room which can accommodate 4 people is EU50 per night. Each of his six comfortable studio apartments and seven rooms has its own terrace or balcony with a view of the sea and the antiquities of Trogir - as described in UNESCO's World Heritage List.

[img here - "Villa Jadran Dining"]

Dinner was being served to guests with confirmed reservations. Wonderful, appetizing food graced every table. But even without reservations, Toni, their superb Sicilian chef was able to fix us a wonderful fish dinner.

This man is a dynamo! Toni drives his scooter into town everyday for fresh fish, seafood, and vegetables. He cooks and seasons everything to perfection. He serves all dinner courses as well as pours the wine he suggests.

This multi-talented chef from Sicily can even help you with Internet/computer problems.

We ordered dinner from Toni for the following evening. "Dorada" (Grouper?) Did we like it? Was it good? "It was a Feast!"

[img here - "Bridge to Trogir"]

Few can decide the color of the Jadran Sea. Sometimes dark blue, sometimes greenish blue. It constantly shines forth in a thousand hues depending on the time of day and the angle of the sun. Yet, it is always beautiful. Unique.

Walk along the road by the Jadran Sea. Cross the bridge to the island of Trogir. Enter by the South Town Gate, standing since the 16th century.

[img here - "South Gate"]

Statues, fortresses, palaces, churches, Roman pavements and walls. All glisten in their astonishing and eternal beauty.

Trogir was established at the end of 2nd century B.C. by Greeks, Romans, and Illyrians. In the 7th century the Croats developed this municipality into one of the most beautiful towns on the Adriatic coast.

[img here - "Ancient Streets"]

A treasury of art - an open air museum! Ancient Greek and Roman fragments, some with inscriptions, along with early Croatian art all compete for your attention. Stand enraptured and admire Gothic and Renaissance masterpieces. Feel the coolness of sturdy walls and bastions, the lush beauty of the cathedral, the mystique of the ancient winding streets.

Harmony of color and form in paintings, miniatures, and carvings. In quiet museums, old libraries and amidst stone monuments. Trace man's creativity in a climate where the sun, sea, stone and nature have defined Croatian life. Delight your palate and your soul!

[img here - "Nikola's Apartment View"]

Our friend meets us that afternoon on the other side of Ciovo. Nikola Radic built a beautiful new apartment building on a hillside overlooking the Jadran Sea. Two of his 2-bedroom apartments are impeccably furnished and fully equipped. The rest are being worked on. Peace and serenity just 25 minutes from Split airport. Call Nikola and rent your vacation accommodations in a beautiful paradise. Phone (mobil) 385-098-1699-567, (land) 385-098-886-617.

Croatian hospitality! Nikola invites us to stay the night. He leaves to buy food while we enjoy the ambiance of his lovely accommodations. Bread, cheese, vegetables and superb home-made wine. The wine is made by Nikola's brother. We go later to his brother's for "coffee" and partake of Ivor's and Anica's generous hospitality.

[img here - "Rooster Watches Over All"]

Grapes, Figs, Olives, Lemons, Oranges, Walnuts, Tomatoes, Herbs. The Rooster stands potentate over his harem of hens. Fresh eggs every morning.

Their in-home winery produces wines and liquors only for the Family - their wines are not available in stores. The 4-year old white wine is Bjelo Vino - an excellent wine blended from a number of grape varieties. They produce typical Croatian wines - Babic, Dingac, Playac as well as Prosek (a liqueur).

[img here - "Family Vineyard and More"]

We talk long into the night and learn so much. A tourist from Moravia staying next door brings a bottle of Travarica to share - an herb liquor produced from over 25 herbs. Wonderful cultural exchange.

Nikola's sister owns a unique business - Fish Picnic. We are invited to her traditional Croatian Fish Picnic, which happens every Friday. Awaken early? No problem! The rooster tells us - dawn has risen. It is time to awake. Let's go to the Fish Picnic.

Drive to Filip's Marina early. Coffee with the Captain and deck-hands. We board. Is this only for us? No. A few minutes later approximately 50 other picnic-ers waiting dockside in front of the Medena Hotel join us. We cruise past many beautiful islands. Drinks and cookies are served on board.

A shore visit on Drvenik Veliki - a picturesque island also served by Jadrolinija Ferry Line from Split. Walk around and explore. Nikola has a friend on this island - but has never been there to see him. His friend was not at home. Take some pictures and leave him a note.

[img here - "Walk the Plank"]

Re-embark on the "Filip." Cruise past more beautiful islands. Arrive at "Rat" cove on Ciovo Island. Walk the plank to the rich lunch awaiting us - mackerel, salad, bread, juice, wine, and watermelon. "All you can eat." After lunch it's the sunny beach, a refreshing swim or a nature walk in the woods.

Cost of this "Fish Picnic" experience is EU22/adults, children age 6-12/half price, children 5 and under/free. If you don't like fish, you can special order meat - a variety of meats are served at EU33/adults. For reservations call: 385 (21) 881-910 or 385 (91) 519-0053.

[img here - "All You Can Eat Fish and More"]

Wonderful day! We say our goodbyes...and depart. Flicker of moonlight on calm sea - follow the Jadran to Zadar...

Marilyn King has been a travel professional since 1988. Her "Flight To Quality" has provided quality travel arrangements for individuals, corporations and groups: Europe, South America and the Caribbean. In 2003, Marilyn completed the Ireland Specialist Programme and is now an official member of The Shamrock Club/Tourism Ireland. Learn more - ( http://www.FlightToQuality.com ). Subscribe to your "Free for Life" newsletter - "Psssss.....t!" Receive your Free eReport - "Taste Wine in a Small Village" - ( http://www.FlightToQuality.com ).

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